Wednesday, 18 January 2012

I do it for the views.

Summit views?
Having spent my last day off as a man about town in the high streets, back streets and even canal streets of Chester and with tomorrow looking like much of the same. I had to make a quick hit in the mountains today. If only to get a bit more mileage in my Winter boots and to make my new jacket look less new!
So Sian, "poppy dog" and I headed out for a nice bimble up Yr Aran from the Nantgwynant side, a mountain that must be over looked by that masses due to its close proximity to Snowdon. After a quick diversionary adventure through a "secret tunnel" to an old slate mine we rapidly got to the summit. And with lunch inhaled and the views admired we aimed to boot it down the ace little ridge line back to the Watkin path but.....

Spicy Incline.

The spicy incline stood in our way, at first glance it looked like death, but with a quick inspection from above it was deemed that it was not only human friendly it was dog friendly much to poppy's relief. With that it was back home for tea and medals!

Friday, 13 January 2012

We left boys, we returned Heros!


Red Smoke marks the spot.
Having already drytooled and scrambled on my previous days off it was time for a bit of mountain craggin'. So followed another blast up into Cwm Idwal but this time eyes were on Central Arete (VD)which "goes well in big boots". With the choice of a scree shoot accent or a classic route on the slabs as an approach to Central Arete the decision was not difficult . Tristan and I quickly began soloing up Red Slab(D). Not the best route in the area but an awesome solo never being desperate and always being dry, after a scrappy start a really nice red slabby section appears, unsurprisingly. The route tops out about 400 or so meters from the bottom of Central Arete.
After a quick snack break it was on to the meat of the climbing day, Central Arete. Still in solo mode we lashed up the first pitch however being higher, the rock becoming ever looser and with a description of "delicate climbing:the holds feel small but they keep on coming" ahead of us it was time to rack up. 45m and a load of tat later Tristan and I were standing with the whole of the Cwm below us fantastic exposure for a VD. My pitch was next and it took in some awesome pinnacles though loose rock dictated very little in the way of mentionable gear....although I did run out of slings about 3/4 of the way, thankfully the tat crag swag was on hand to save the day! After cobbling together a belay out of some slings I had left in my bag "because we didn't need them" I noticed a man hanging around on a ledge for quite some time. After Tristan's arrival and a snack break I noticed the man was still there. Once Tristan had left the belay I gave him a quick wave to be met with "I have been scrambling I'M STUCK!".
Some spicy next to river down climbing later we were at the base of the crag to see Mountain Rescue coming up the scree toward the man. Luckily I was on hand to point the man in a bright orange jacket out otherwise they would have never seen him! Tristan and I hung around to watch the rescue and feel the immense down draft chill from the "Yellow Taxi". Before it got dark we boosted back to the car. A great way to end a fantastic week of being in and around the mountains.

Big Boots O'Clock.


Another day another success, I met Craig at 9.30a.m in the Ogwen Valley for some more Morocco mountain training. Today's focus was moving together while using a rope so when we get to Morocco we are slick and safe. So with a skinny rack and even skinner rope we blasted up to Cwm Idwal with our eyes on The Y Garn East Ridge a grade 2** although it was well with in our abilities it was the perfect venue for honing our rope work and practicing climbing in big mountain boots. It always amazes me how effectively you can climb in a pair of mountain boots and I really do enjoy walking in, climbing and walking back in the same footwear. After some spicy maneuvers on variations up the scramble we pottered up to Y Garn summit and back down via the Kitchen. All in all it was a great day out with fantastic scrambling conditions fairly dry and very little breeze.

Wednesday, 11 January 2012

Foolin' and Drytoolin'

White Goods, mud included.
With Morocco looming and winter no where to be seen Craig and I hit the rock (and mud) of White Goods near Rutin. Having been before I was the lucky soul to lead the first route (Adams (they made me) M5) to rig a rope so we could top rope the other routes on the next lower off.
Due to an increase in my tool box since last time I had been, I was able to remove the Adze and Hammer from my Quarks which lightend the tools slightly but more importantly also gave piece of mind that if a hook blew there was less on the back of the axes ruin my face.
White Goods Topo
After an ace afternoon skittling up and down Adams, Apple and And Pears Craig and my forearms told us it was time to call it a day. Thankfully we still had time to play spot the crampon at the bottom of the Crag.
Spot the crampons?
As for tomorrow, better conditions in the mountains are luring us. So we will be doing a bit of bit of moving together practice on Y Garn ridge.